Prep and Checklist

Confirm tubeless‑ready rims/tires, fresh tape, and snug tubeless valves. Clean bead seats thoroughly and inspect for old dried sealant. Remove valve cores for high‑flow inflation when seating.

Pre‑stretch tires on the rim for easier seating. Keep soapy water ready to help bead slip and reveal leaks. A compressor or booster canister simplifies first seating.

Seating the Bead

Use a floor pump with burst chamber, a booster canister, or a compressor. Without those, remove the valve core, use rapid strokes, and massage sidewalls to encourage bead engagement. Work around the tire to chase persistent leaks.

CO2 can help in a pinch to pop the bead, but swap to regular air after seating—CO2 may reduce sealant longevity and initial sealing performance.

Sealant: Choice and Volume

Choose a sealant matching your temperatures and terrain (low‑temp formulas for winter, fiber‑rich blends for thorny trails). Typical volumes: 60–90 ml (road/gravel), 90–120 ml (XC/Downcountry), 120–150 ml (Enduro/Plus).

Shake vigorously before injecting to distribute solids. Top up every 2–3 months (more often in hot/dry climates). Spin and lay the wheel on each side to coat the casing evenly.

Pressure Targets

Start with manufacturer charts, then tune: lower for grip/comfort and rough terrain compliance; higher for support, speed, and rim protection. Track PSI, tire width, and conditions in a ride log.

If you hear burps in hard cornering or landings, add 1–3 PSI or consider inserts. If traction feels vague, reduce 1–2 PSI and re‑test on the same section.

Trail‑Side Fixes

Carry plugs (various sizes), a valve core tool, and a mini pump or CO2. For larger cuts, use a tire boot and a tube as a bailout. Wipe the area and rotate the puncture to six‑o'clock to pool sealant.

After using CO2, replace with air later for better retention. Re‑seat beads carefully to avoid tearing dried sealant at the bead seat.

Maintenance Routine

Spin and slosh monthly to redistribute sealant. Inspect the bead seat for dried ridges and remove gently if leaks appear. Refresh rim tape at the first sign of tape lift or slow leaks.

Replace bent valve cores and perished rubber grommets. Keep a calendar reminder to top up sealant and verify target pressures seasonally.

Sealant Refresh Schedule

Tubeless sealant dries out over time. Many riders check it every 2 to 4 months, but hot weather, porous tires, and frequent riding can shorten that interval. Shake the wheel and listen for liquid, or remove the valve core to inspect. Add sealant before it dries completely so small punctures continue sealing quickly.

Bead Seating Checklist

Before seating the bead, confirm the rim tape is smooth, the valve is tight, the tire bead is clean, and the tire is centered in the rim channel. Add air quickly and listen for the bead snapping into place. If the tire will not seat, remove the valve core for more airflow or use a compressor-style pump.

Common Tubeless Leaks and Fixes

Air can leak through the valve base, rim tape, tire sidewall, or an unsealed puncture. Rotate and shake the wheel so sealant reaches the leak. If bubbles appear at the spoke holes, rim tape may need replacing. If the tire loses pressure overnight, check with soapy water before assuming the tire is defective.

When to Use a Compressor, CO2, or Public Pump

A compressor or high-volume chamber pump is best for first-time bead seating. CO2 can work in emergencies, but routine pressure checks are better with air. Once the tire is seated, use the tire pressure guide and nearby public pumps from the BikePump map for normal inflation.

Bike tire pressure calculator & chart (PSI / bar) →